{"id":29679,"date":"2021-11-22T14:51:22","date_gmt":"2021-11-22T12:51:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/?p=29679"},"modified":"2023-02-25T18:15:48","modified_gmt":"2023-02-25T16:15:48","slug":"postsovietines-mados-zaidimas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/straipsniai\/postsovietines-mados-zaidimas\/","title":{"rendered":"Postsovietin\u0117s mados \u017eaidimas"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[vc_row row_type=&#8221;row&#8221; use_row_as_full_screen_section=&#8221;no&#8221; type=&#8221;full_width&#8221; text_align=&#8221;left&#8221; css_animation=&#8221;&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text el_class=&#8221;post_txt&#8221;]Ra\u0161ymas apie Lietuvos mados istorij\u0105 primena \u017eaidim\u0105 \u201eSi\u016blai, si\u016blai susivykit\u201c, nes timptel\u0117jus u\u017e si\u016blo galo (nesvarbu, kas tai b\u016bt\u0173\u00a0\u2013 vyraujan\u010dios tendencijos, dizaineri\u0173 darbai ir t. t.), pradeda vyniotis politin\u0117 \u0161alies istorija, kurios r\u0117muose arba gyvavo, arba buvo var\u017eomas mados, kaip rai\u0161kos, fenomenas. Tad svarbu pamin\u0117ti, kad ir XX a. mados Lietuvoje ribo\u017eenkliai yra tie patys, kurie nurodyti istorijos vadov\u0117liuose. Penkiasde\u0161imt ir daugiau pilkos atspalvi\u0173 garderobe bei \u017emoni\u0173 s\u0105mon\u0117je palik\u0119s sovietmetis \u0161iandien vis dar pakankamai artimas laike, kad atpa\u017eintume u\u017esilikusius stiliaus reliktus. Nepaliauja kamuoti klausimai\u00a0\u2013 koks vis tik yra lietuvi\u0161kos mados identitetas ir ar jis i\u0161vis egzistuoja? Kok\u012f p\u0117dsak\u0105 m\u016bs\u0173 mados sampratoje paliko beveik pus\u0119 am\u017eiaus s\u0105moningai gniau\u017eta \u0161io pob\u016bd\u017eio savirai\u0161ka? Ir kod\u0117l jaunoji Ryt\u0173 Europos karta postsovietin\u0119 estetik\u0105 atranda kaip ka\u017ek\u0105 unikalaus bei savito?<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Prad\u0117ti reik\u0117t\u0173 nuo to, kad pats \u017eod\u017ei\u0173 junginys \u201esoviet-me\u010dio mada\u201c yra grei\u010diau oksimoronas nei terminas, nes mados s\u0105voka oficialiajame diskurse neegzistavo iki XX a. a\u0161tuntojo de\u0161imtme\u010dio. Am\u017einasis mados variklis\u00a0\u2013 bandymas save vis i\u0161rasti i\u0161 naujo, tendencij\u0173 ir stili\u0173 kaita, o soviet\u0173 propagandoje drabu\u017eiai atliko grynai praktin\u0119 funkcij\u0105, nors tai, \u017einoma, skyr\u0117si nuo realyb\u0117s bei \u017emoni\u0173 ie\u0161kom\u0173 estetini\u0173 sprendim\u0173. Siekiant kontroliuoti tok\u012f abstrakt\u0173 ir organi\u0161k\u0105 rei\u0161kin\u012f kaip mada, visoje Soviet\u0173 S\u0105jungoje steigti modeli\u0173 namai (Vilniuje jie atidaryti dar 1954 m.), taip pat \u017einiasklaidos priemon\u0117s, pavyzd\u017eiui, mados \u017eurnalas \u201eBanga\u201c, prad\u0117tas leisti 1962-aisiais. Istorik\u0117 Indr\u0117 Novopa\u0161inait\u0117 gan taikliai pastebi, kad to meto nomenklat\u016brinis bandymas pa\u017eaboti mad\u0105 valdininkams virto kone \u0161izofrenis\u030cka uz\u030cduotimi\u00a0\u2013 bu\u0304ti Vakarais, tuo pat metu apsimetant anti-Vakarais. Tok\u012f m\u0105stym\u0105 pagrind\u017eia \u201eBangos\u201c puslapiuose \u0161m\u0117stelintys Vakar\u0173 \u012fvaizd\u017eiai, pavyzd\u017eiui, \u201eChanel\u201c tipo \u0161varkelis.[\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row row_type=&#8221;row&#8221; use_row_as_full_screen_section=&#8221;no&#8221; type=&#8221;full_width&#8221; text_align=&#8221;left&#8221; css_animation=&#8221;&#8221;][vc_column][vc_btn title=&#8221;Pirkti \u017eurnal\u0105&#8221; style=&#8221;classic&#8221; shape=&#8221;square&#8221; color=&#8221;white&#8221; link=&#8221;url:http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nemunas.press%2Fproduktas%2Fnemunas-nr-11-2021%2F|||&#8221;][\/vc_column][\/vc_row][vc_row row_type=&#8221;row&#8221; use_row_as_full_screen_section=&#8221;no&#8221; type=&#8221;full_width&#8221; text_align=&#8221;left&#8221; css_animation=&#8221;&#8221;][vc_column][vc_column_text][\/vc_column_text][\/vc_column][\/vc_row]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ar soviet\u00adme\u010diu egzistavo mada? Kod\u0117l tuometis \u017emogus net apranga signalizavo, kad yra sant\u016brus ir kuklus, bet tik gatv\u0117je, o namuose \u017eyd\u0117jo g\u0117l\u0117tais chalatais? K\u0105 \u0161iandien\u0105 Z karta nori pasakyti, prik\u0117lusi postsovietin\u0119 estetik\u0105? Apie tai svarstoma straipsnyje, gausiai iliustruotame Elenos Krukonyt\u0117s fotografijomis. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":29717,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_FSMCFIC_featured_image_caption":"","_FSMCFIC_featured_image_nocaption":"","_FSMCFIC_featured_image_hide":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[482,148,110,549],"tags":[140],"class_list":["post-29679","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-2021-11","category-perkami_str","category-straipsniai","category-straipsniu-archyvas-2021","tag-dizainas"],"aioseo_notices":[],"wps_subtitle":"Agnet\u0117 Vover\u0117","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/posts\/29679","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=29679"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/posts\/29679\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":29680,"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/posts\/29679\/revisions\/29680"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/media\/29717"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=29679"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=29679"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.nemunas.press\/wm-api\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=29679"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}